Pattern Fitting Class Review
Pattern Fitting Class with Lynda Buscis Saturday, September 9, 2023
Attendees of the pattern fitting class with master pattern maker Lynda Buscis learned a lot in 6 hours. I had no idea there were so many ways to address fit problems in sewing patterns.
Lynda has spent 40 years solving the puzzle of turning a flat piece of fabric into a garment that her client’s customers would purchase. She helped us to understand the many variations in size, fit, style and comfort that she dealt with to make commercial clothing and that we address as sewists. Her stories of the clothing manufacturing world had us laughing and shaking our heads in amazement.
One of the things I found very interesting was the reality of speed sewing in factories, usually on an assembly line basis. Time is money. That rule is why we seldom see such things as shoulder darts to facilitate a smooth fit in jackets, princess seams, interlining and nice hem finishes and buttonholes. However, since we sewists want a quality result, WE CAN take the time to make our garments truly shine. Next time you’re in a quality consignment store, take the time to look over some of the details of older garments. You’ll be inspired.
Most of us brought a muslin, both tops and pants, for a fit critique. It was such a fantastic way to learn. Each of us had an issue to address. I stitched up a pretty basic jacket muslin with both standard and fisheye darts and set in sleeves. I’ve had shoulder replacement surgery, and with age, my shoulders have become very sloped. Lynda, with the help of pins and her marker, showed me how to make my jacket fit my body. Shortening the jacket center edges, lowering the center of the fisheye darts to accommodate my long waist and bringing in the top shoulder seam and back armscye differently on each side to fit my small, asymmetric shoulders worked magic. She also suggested small shoulder pads, one larger on my replacement side, to even me out.
Necklines needed lowering, darts needed shortening or extending, armscyes needed adjustment and the rise and waist on pants needed attention. Each of us were different, but the need to know what to do in each instance, universal.
It was discussed to offer classes that go deeper into the topic of fitting in a future class. Lynda was an excellent instructor. Hopefully she will find time to repeat this class and go to the next level as well. If you see her classes offered, register that day. I know it will sell out!
